I thought maybe I could make it under the wave. I tried my best, and, for a second, though that it was going to be ok. But then, as I tumbled backwards, weightless, holding 8 feet of cumbersome, pointy surfboard, I knew that the next moment was not going to be pretty.  Although I had conceded to that fact, I decided to do my best to hold the board close to myself and the lip of the wave made contact with the surface below. "If I can hold it tight, it can't hit me!", I remember thinking... And then boom. Absolute chaos. The board breaks my grip like a hiker through a spiderweb and disappears into the oblivion.  Several seconds and multiple somersalts and spins later, I resurface, gather myself and my board and continue to make my way through the impact zone and out to the lineup.  As I paddle I realize that my board must have hit my knee as it was yanked from me in the explosion.

 

Later I discover that my knee was somehow bent the wrong wasy during that impact. Now I'm looking at some time out of the water.  I have injured myself right at the begining of the winter surf season, the best surf season of the year here at Ocean Beach.  Again.

 

Last year I separated my shoulder in late September and was out of the water for almost 7 months, missing the entire fall and winter.  Now I seem to have done it again and I am forced to sit and watch some of the best days of the year.  Thankfully, I live right next to the beach and have for most of my life, so I've had my fair share of great waves here!

 

With great friends and great waves, this neighborhood has been so good to me over the years. Whether I can surf or not, this is still my favorite time of year.  Who doesn't love consistently clear, sunny days where you can catch great waves and dungeness crabs in the same afternoon?!?

 

They say you dont miss the water till the well runs dry.  For me, getting injured make me really aware of how lucky I am to live the incredible coastal lifestyle that I do.  This Thanksgiving, I am overwhelmed with gratitude.